We love an open kitchen, especially when the restaurant that houses it – in this case, a classic, wallet-busting paradise tucked away in Soho – has two Michelin stars and a penchant for theatrical service. Dining at the eponymous French chef's London outpost, you realise why sitting at the bar right in front of the kitchen for a tasting menu in a restaurant of this calibre is, by a distance, the best seat in the house.