It's leek season! Make the most of it with these recipes from top London chefs
As sales of leeks dropped to record lows last year, we say: viva la leek! Make the most of this subtly sweet vegetable with these recipes from some of our favourite London chefs
Not just an excuse for making a swathe of highly amusing puns, leeks are also the recipient of recent PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) status, in an attempt to boost sales after they slumped last year. This spritely vegetable that holds the oniony flavour of their allium friends but with a boost of delicate sweetness too, is extremely versatile, holding its own in any number of recipes.
While these new sales stats may suggest otherwise, leeks can – and should – be an integral part of your cooking over the winter months. The season runs from November through to April, bringing light to your kitchen through even the darkest of days. As Helen Graham, executive chef at Bubala says, "Leeks are so versatile, they have a sweet, oniony flavour that adds depth to soups, stews and more, but I really enjoy them on their own as well, not only as a side dish but also as a vegetarian main course or perhaps as the star of a Sunday roast."
While we can’t single handedly boost sales of leeks (although trust us, we’ve tried), we can give you the recipes you need to take full advantage of this wonderful vegetable. Some of our favourite London chefs have shared with us their best leek recipes to cook you through this winter.
Bubala's Amba leek skewers
Makes 9
Preparation time 5 minutes
Cooking time 10 minutes
Ingredients
9 wooden skewers (soak a few extra just in case)
3 large leeks
2 dried black limes (optional)
135g Amba sauce
135g agave syrup
45ml lemon juice plus a little extra to serve
150ml rapeseed oil
Pinch of Maldon salt
Method
Soak your skewers in cold water until ready to use. Bring a pan of water to the boil with ½ tsp table salt. Cut the white part of the leeks into thick coins - about 2cm thick. Discard the green tops - you may want to keep these to make a stock.
Blanch your leeks for 3 minutes. Transfer the leeks to a plate lined with kitchen paper to remove as much moisture as possible before transferring to a bowl.
To make your marinade, first add your dried limes to a blender until they form a fine powder. To this, add your Amba, agave syrup and lemon juice and blend until smooth. Slowly add your oil into this mix whilst its blending, as you would a mayonnaise. Season with salt.
Add this marinade to your leeks and toss gently to coat, being careful not to break up the leeks. Now, skewer them through the outside of the leek - you want about 3 coins per skewer.
Ideally you want to cook the leeks on a BBQ, but a griddle pan also works well. Place the leeks on the grill, and turn after 2-3 mins until they are golden and a little charred on each side. Use a pastry brush to bast the skewers as they cook.
Transfer to a serving dish, squeeze over a little more lemon and sprinkle with a pinch of Maldon salt
Fallow's leek and cauliflower cheese
Serves 6
Preparation time 10 minutes
Cooking time 30 minutes
Ingredients
1 cauliflower
3 leeks
500ml milk
4 tbsp flour
50g butter
150g cheese – you can use up odd bits of cheese here like cheddar, Comte, gruyere and parmesan
2-3 tbsp breadcrumbs, if you have them (we keep bread that is going stale, whizz it up and freeze the breadcrumbs)
Salt and pepper
1 tbsp wholegrain mustard
1 tbsp olive oil
Method
Preheat your oven to 200 degrees celsius.
Start by prepping your cauliflower. Remove the large leaves and then cut the white stalks out of these. Set aside the green leaves and the smaller white leaves that live further into the cauliflower. Break the cauliflower into florets and then chop up the main stalk, and the stalk from the larger green leaves, into large pieces.
Clean your leeks, trim and cut into 2cm rounds.
Steam your leeks and cauliflower florets and stalks for 6-8 mins until just becoming tender. Drain and set aside.
Now make your cheese sauce. Melt the butter and stir in the flour to make a roux. Stir for a minute on a low heat and then slowly whisk in your milk and stir for about two minutes until the sauce thickens. Take the sauce off the heat and stir in the cheese, mustard, cauliflower florets and stalks, and leeks.
Roughly slice the cauliflower leaves and lightly toss in olive oil and salt. Place on a baking tray.
Bake both the leeks and cauliflower cheese, and the leaves, on different shelves in the oven for 20 minutes . The leaves should be nice and crispy and the cheese should be bubbling and golden brown .
Scatter the leaves on top of the baked cauliflower cheese and grate over an extra sprinkle of cheese before serving.
Wild by Tart's smoky leeks with polenta and tarragon salsa
Sarves 4
Preparation time 20 minutes
Cooking time 20 minutes
Ingredients
250g polenta
1125ml vegetable stock
10g Kombu Dashi (optional)
125g butter
Small bunch thyme, woody stalks removed
5 cloves garlic, crushed
3 shallots, finely chopped
1 tsp dried chilli flakes
Sea salt & cracked black pepper
115g parmesan cheese, grated
2 leeks
Parmesan – for serving
A handful of toasted hazelnuts
For the salsa
Small handful parsley
Small handful tarragon
1 spring onion
50ml olive oil
20ml white wine vinegar
Salt and pepper
A teaspoon of honey
Method
For the leeks – place the leek in the fire whole till and turn occasionally till all is black and blistered. Take out of the fire and leave to cook. Chop off the end of the leeks and carefully take off the outer burnt layers – the leek should be soft and cooked inside. Using a knife brush off as much of the burnt ashes and discard. Chop off the leaves and discard.
Now chop the leek into 2-inch chunks (slice in half if large) and place to one side till needed.
For the green salsa – place all the ingredients into a food processor and pulse. Check the seasoning and update if needed.
For the polenta: Sweat the shallot, garlic and thyme in the butter till soft then add the stock and dashi if using and bring to a simmer. Whisk in the polenta and cook for 10–15 minutes till smooth. Finish with the parmesan and check the seasoning. Serve straight away.
To plate – spoon the polenta onto your serving plate, place over the leeks, drizzle with the salsa and finish with sprinkled hazelnuts and a grating of parmesan
