Still abundant in autumn, mackerel is richly flavoured, hardy and bullish enough to stand up to heavy spicing and relatively aggressive cooking," it says in the cookbook.
"That is exactly what happens here. A spicy paste is applied, then the fish is grilled until the spices sizzle and the flesh just begins to flake. A salad of pickled carrots and coriander helps to cleanse the palate between each bite, cutting through the spice and oiliness of the mackerel. It's not difficult to butterfly the fish at home, removing the fillets from the bones in one piece, and leaving the tail on to keep them together, but ask the fishmonger to do it if you prefer."