Marceline

What’s the vibe?

A beguiling blend of Art Deco touches and modernist details. Located on a floating pavilion in rapidly developing Wood Wharf, the hard angles of its exterior box-like shape are softened within by plush, velvet-covered banquettes, Hermes-orange stools at the bar, delightfully flattering low lighting, and a massive mural of an elegantly dressed, 1920s-era woman on the far wall of the double-height main floor. The whole thing is tied together by a vast, octagonal-shaped light source covered in gathered white fabric, which dominates the ceiling.

It’s a grand, comfortable, even cosy space – despite its sizeable scale – with echoes of Maison Francois, Bellanger and Brasserie Zedel; the brasserie feel is emphasised by half curtains, wooden cafe chairs, and angled, brass-lined mirrors.

What to eat?

Cooking must run in the family, as head chef Robert Aikens is brother to Tom, and having worked under the Roux brothers at La Gavroche, and for several restaurants in New York, including Pastis, he knows his (French) onions. His menu covers all bases from oysters and steak tartare – served here scattered with hazelnuts, mint, and artichoke chips – to all-day crowd-pleasers such as croque monsieur (et madame), the cheeseburger ‘a l’Americaine’ and grilled merguez sausage with fries. But if you fancy lingering over a heartier meal in the evening – and we recommend you do, as the views of sunset sinking behind the skyscrapers as you approach from Canary Wharf are rather impressive – you simply have to start with the extraordinary free-flowing bread basket. Yes, that’s as much warm, fresh, chewy baguette as you can eat, served with – mais bien sur! – salted butter for just £3 per person.

Rotisserie chicken

Bennie Curnow

Fillet steak

Bennie Curnow

French onion soup

Bennie Curnow

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To really make the most of it, you’ll want to drag it through the creamy salmon rillette, infused with lemon aioli and served with dill-topped, semi-pickled cucumbers on the side, or spread it thickly with hunks of the rustic pâté de campagne, which comes with a good dab of French grain mustard and plenty of cornichons. Don’t miss the insanely cheesy ravioli dauphine, drenched in brown butter and stuffed with comté cheese - richer than most of the people who work in those neighbouring towers of finance. Entrées include the likes of whole or half lobster frites, Dover sole meunière, and juicy rotisserie chicken, stuffed with thyme, sage and rosemary.

You can’t go wrong with a classic steak frites, indulged in with sides such as creamy pommes purées and steamed fine green beans with garlic. Vegetarians are not forgotten, either, with choices like spaghetti in a simple basil and tomato sauce, or a wild mushroom vol-au-vent with spinach and a mushroom velouté. Desserts are definitely on the classic side, from the whisper-thin pastry of the apple tarte fine, to the crème caramel. In short, this is somewhere to sit and, literally, get slowly, enjoyably, and yes, Gallic-ly, stuffed.

What to drink?

Kick off with one of the rather superb cocktails; the ‘Two Sips’ dirty martini (fab for a fiver) lives up to its name, while the French Martini No 5 comes with the addition of cognac to the vodka, Chambord, and roasted pineapple. The Riviera is a light, refreshing mix of Italicus, grapefruit and salt, while the Violet Light is actually a rather hefty hit of gin and pastis, with violet and lemon.

The ‘Two Sips’ dirty martini 

The wine list skews largely European, with wines by the glass starting at £7 for 125ml, and half litres available from £25; affable in-house sommelier, Jeffrey, will see you right whatever your taste and budget.