What's the draw
Wright Brothers might have just launched its fifth restaurant in the revamped Grade II-listed Battersea Power Station, but don't be put off by the 'batter' in Battersea – the specialist seafood merchant is still serving up its signature fresh fish and shellfish with all the usual care and creativity.
What to drink
Cocktail lovers, beer bashers and wine connoisseurs will all find their plaice (sorry) at Wright Bros. Battersea. The drinks list is extensive but considered, offering everything from a seasonal pine-smoked Martinez with Earl Grey-infused Bombay Sapphire gin and a £180 bottle of 2016 Dom Pérignon Champagne – if you're that-way inclined – to a good old pint of Guinness to go with your freshly shucked oysters.
What to eat
This is some of the finest seafood in London, and the best way to experience it all is with a platter – build your own, or do like we did and opt for a house selection. As with any high-end seafood restaurant, what's on the menu very much depends on supply and the season. On our visit we tucked into the likes of sweet Irish oysters from Louth, St. Austell Bay mussels, whelks, brown shrimp and Atlantic prawns, all of which were served on a bed of ice with a side of finely chopped pickled red onion and not bad value at all for £29 between three. When it comes to the main event, order anything that's seen the inside of the Josper grill and you're on to a surefire winner. The Var salmon – coal-roasted, flaky as anything, soaring with chilli heat and backed up with the lingering umami of white miso and earthy king oyster mushrooms – might be the best thing we ate in 2017. Sides-wise, roasted sprouts and chestnuts might seem more suited to turkey than fish, but once you've gone full sprout, you'll never go back.
Mains from £10.50; wine from £5.75 by the glass. 26 Circus West Village, Battersea Power Station, SW8 4NN. thewrightbrothers.co.uk
