Sri Lanka is renowned for its vibrant drinking culture, where people gather around a bottle of arrack, cheering (or shouting) at the national cricket team on the television. Picture aunties gossiping about their in-laws with a sherry while preparing food for a dinner party, or tourists savouring a Lion Lager against the backdrop of a sunset at Galle Fort on the south coast.
Adding to this tapestry are Sri Lanka’s single-origin teas, grown in the highlands, along with the sour taste of thambili (king coconut water), an ancient remedy for a dodgy stomach (…and apparently a hangover). Couple these with the variety of our native fruits, and you have an expansive mix of spirits and ingredients that define a rich drinking culture.
A traditional Sri Lankan outrigger sailboat
Over the past few years, the Sri Lankan bar scene has undergone a transformative period, led by a number of trailblazers and mixologists. Smoke and Bitters, based on the south coast in Hiriketiya, has been at the forefront. Don, Lahiru, and their team have fused a passion for local ingredients with creativity, earning themselves a spot on Asia’s Top 50 bars list for the last three consecutive years. This thriving scene has recently welcomed two other notable additions – Uncles in Colombo and Ropewalk in Galle.
Uncles' distinctive style and personality has quickly become famous around Park Street Mews, a private road lined with restaurants and bars. Here, the vibe is all about local food, drink, and people, with guests spilling onto the mews as they try to navigate their way to the bar. On the other end of the spectrum, Ropewalk opened last year as Sri Lanka’s first arrack-specialty bar. Located in the historic Galle Fort Hotel which is nearly 300 years old, the food menu features dishes that are disappearing from family dining tables, while the cocktail list firmly establishes arrack on the global map.
An orange juice vendor
The emergence of these bars has certainly inspired and motivated me to further develop our drinks program, working closely with head of drinks Erin Mulkerrin-English. I can sense a noticeable shift away from 'traditional/old school mixology.' At Paradise in London, drinks are at the heart of everything that we do, even when crafting our food menu. We frequently incorporate ingredients, including spices and fruits from Sri Lanka, into our infusions.
Picture aunties gossiping about their in-laws with a sherry while preparing food for dinner
With the introduction of Open Door Policy (our chef’s table in Colombo set to open in Summer 2024), we'll be creating a mini playground for Erin to curate the next iteration of modern Sri Lankan beverages. Our goal is to continue revolutionising the bar scene on the island, offering drinks and infusions that are not only delicious and passionately crafted but also consistently incorporate local ingredients and modern techniques.
While mixology is advancing in Sri Lanka, the landscape of ingredients remains unchanged, drawing from spices that embrace the benefits of ancient medicinal practices such as Ayurveda as well as the abundant supply of citrus introduced to us by the Dutch and Indonesians. Let's not forget the overlooked heroes growing in all our back gardens at home, including jackfruit. Sri Lanka boasts a diverse array of ingredients, and I believe it's these flavours that will continue to define and create the essence of Sri Lankan cocktails, even as techniques evolve.
A man hoisting an usi kola fish at a market
An outdoor market
Mangoes play a central role on both menus in London and Colombo – and for those who love them, Sri Lanka is a paradise. The country is home to various types of indigenous varieties available from May to August, including petti amba (small, green, sweet, and sour); mee amba (small, sweet, and very soft); and coconut mango with soft yellow flesh that tastes like honey. We incorporate them into our White Mango Negroni along with a heavenly blend of Colombo 7 gin and Lillet Blanc vermouth.
Known locally as the ‘tree of life,’ there is no part of the coconut tree that Sri Lankans don’t utilise. Even if we skip the timber, the leaves, the cadjan, the cocopeat, toddy, vinegar, and the young leaves used for funeral decorations, there are still endless possibilities to explore when it comes to the coconut itself.
In London, it’s employed across all facets of the bar and kitchen – most notably in our curry-leaf daiquiri, an undisputed favourite among regulars. This cocktail is a delicate dance of coconut rum, rambutan, coconut water, and curry leaves. In contrast, Open Door Policy will see us smoking coconuts over the coals to incorporate them into our devilled margarita, imparting the drink with a rich, complex, and distinctive flavour.
Mas Roll at Paradise Soho
One of the things that Sri Lanka is most known for is tea, one of our biggest exports picked in the rolling hills of the upcountry. While milky tea is usually drunk at home, we've discovered that using tea can add complexity to a cocktail in a unique way. From clarifying our boozy arrack chai punch with it, to now experimenting with an Earl Grey syrup and a chamomile hot toddy, it's something I can't wait to explore more of when I spend time in Sri Lanka throughout the year.
