Is there anywhere else in the kitchen more exciting than the spice rack? It’s where the magic really happens. Pulses, meat, and vegetables become mere vehicles for their bright and dazzling flavour.
In lots of different cultures, spice markets continue to be lively, bustling places. Families often have a preferred vendor – known for being discerning and tracking down the most potent spices – and household blends are often measured out and freshly ground to order. After all, it’s the spices which underpin so many cuisines: the distinct, lib-numbing tingle of Szechuan peppercorns in South West China, herby za’atar which laces many a Middle Eastern dish, the fragrant cardamom associated with Scandinavian bakes.
What a loss it is for British cuisine that the spice-laden food of the Elizabethan era fell out of fashion.
The V&A Museum has a collection of elaborately embossed, silver nutmeg graters – many designed to be proudly worn on a neck chain – which are a sign of a bygone age, when spices were revered. Alas, now the spice industry is heavily commoditised. Small glass jars are (quite literally) sold for the price of peanuts and tentative use often sees them relegated to the back of the cabinet where many linger for years.
Rooted Spices
Though I am writing from a biased place, I can think of few other areas of the kitchen which are deserving of a little love and attention than the spice rack. Although an old spice won’t endanger diners, it will become quite defunct – as spices lose their potency over time, which (apart from the occasional imparting of colour) is their sole purpose.
Those keen to start spicing things up a little more might want to start with a ‘finishing spice’ – something which might be added at the last minute. The beauty of this is that it requires no cooking, but simply imagination beyond “seasoning with salt and pepper” (as the majority of British recipes recommend). Aleppo pepper is a great go-to for a fruity heat or sumac for a sharper, citrus note. Even a little grated nutmeg over French Toast or a pinch of ground cardamom in porridge can be transformative.
In Indian cuisine, that finishing flourish of spices is often done as a ‘tadka’ – a tempering technique in which (usually whole) spices are added to hot oil which is then poured over a dish, stirring an additional layer of flavour through it. It’s a fun technique to incorporate into daily dishes, whether that’s crackling whole coriander seeds in olive oil and pouring it over a roasted red pepper and mozzarella salad or adding a dash of Urfa black chilli to foaming butter to be drizzled over a steak.
In all the spice-related conversations I’ve had as a business owner, one common preconception which comes up time and time again is the perceived complexity of cooking with spices. Sure, there are the Mexican moles which artfully balance multiple ingredients – as with Indian curries or a Moroccan ras el hanout. But in order to start incorporating spices more regularly, it’s often as simple as a well-timed pinch of something which makes a world of difference.
To buy single-origin spices and unique spice blends visit rootedspices.com. 'The Modern Spice Rack' by Esther Clarke and Rachel Walker is available to buy here.
