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Number 90, Hackney Wick: restaurant review

A restaurant and bar in the middle of a canal-side multi-use arts space on an industrial estate in Hackney Wick, Number 90 sounds suspiciously like a Portlandia

A restaurant and bar in the middle of a canal-side multi-use arts space on an industrial estate in Hackney Wick, Number 90 sounds suspiciously like a Portlandia-style East London in-joke. But it’s very much real, and worth checking out. Chef Leon Borja packs his dishes with passion and flavour, and when it all comes together – as in melt-in-the-mouth braised oxcheek with lightly charred celeriac and a caper jus, and sticky, unctuous lamb ribs with soy beans – it’s stonking great comfort food, if hardly subtle. But then, with electro-funk coming out the speakers, street art on the walls and soaring ceilings, nor is Number 90. Here’s hoping it stays that way. – Jon Hawkins

90 Main Yard, E9 5LN; 90mainyard.co.uk

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