What’s the score?
When you hear the word Florida, you might immediately think of Mickey Mouse – or Miami (and the accompanying Will Smith soundtrack). Yet, like most things in America, Florida is supersized, so these tropes are only a smattering of what the Sunshine State has to offer. The Panhandle region in the north is less frequented by tourists from outside the USA. Hugging the Gulf of Mexico, it boasts calm azure waters, southern-state music, and Louisiana-influenced cuisine – making it the perfect place for a Deep South adventure, with the added bonus of jaw-slackening nature, bountiful wildlife, and idyllic beaches to unwind on.
Dog walkers amble the pine forest and trails in the Florida Panhandle
Pensacola Airport runs regular connecting flights and the surrounding city is a great place to base yourself during your stay, while Panama City Beach – a must-visit if you hope to spot dolphins – is a two-hour drive away. Make sure you factor food and music into any itinerary. And for full ‘Floridamaxxing’, strike up a conversation with friendly American holidaymakers (it won’t be hard once they clock your non-local accent). Then perhaps challenge them to a game of pool, request a line dance tutorial, or accompany someone on stage at a local karaoke bar – it’s all part of the Florida experience.
Where to stay
Pensacola Beach Holiday Inn Resort
The resort is a family-friendly affair, hosting over 200 spacious, well-considered rooms with 24-hour service. It has not one but three swimming pools, as well as beach access with all the umbrellas and towels you might need. You could accidentally lose hours sitting on your high-floor balcony looking across the meditative Santa Rosa Sound, but do make a point of leaving – you’re right in the action, a stone’s throw from bars, live music, shopping, and Pensacola’s main beach promenade.
Rooms from £177. Via De Luna Drive, Pensacola Beach, FL 32561; holidayinnresortpensacolabeach.com
SpringHill Suites by Marriott
If you’re looking to save travel time on the days you opt to search for dolphins in the wild, or fancy being closer to visitable, untouched islands, then SpringHill Suites is a good choice. It offers beach access and uninterrupted views, along with a generous breakfast buffet – although you might want to skip it since The Pour (less than a five-minute walk away) provides your caffeine fix, while Thomas’ Donuts up the road is a must-visit.
The pool at SpringHill Suites by Marriott at Panama City Beach, looking out over the expansive sea
The area in general is a play on the senses: wander a few minutes out the door and feel like an extra in a Sean Baker film. Kitsch signs and roadside arcades are sprinkled along the front, while topless runners, Harley-Davidson bikers, and renters of Transformers-esque three-wheelers all collide on the same main road. Make sure to observe enough of the madness before retiring back to the calm of your room.
Rooms from £130. 12513 Front Beach Road, Panama City Beach, FL 32407; marriott.com
What to do
Flora-Bama
Take a visit to Flora-Bama Yacht Club, a laid-back, open-air restaurant straddling the state line. Arrive in the late afternoon to enjoy cold drinks and coastal flavours. Wave at people mooring their boats over the water in Alabama and sample shrimp gumbo or crab sautéed in Creole cream, making sure to suck every last drop of goodness from the claw. Yet dining comes with a small warning – you might spot a billboard reading: “Mullet Toss Ahead.” Here, fish are flung across the line from Florida into Alabama in the joyously random Interstate Annual Mullet Tossing Competition. You won’t want to miss it.
When you’re done, jig away the extra gumbo at their sister music venue over the road. It’s a Tardis of southern-state history: scribbled walls, illuminated beer signs, and portraits of country and western royalty gone by – from Elvis Presley to Lynyrd Skynyrd. The music plays every night of the week. And fish aren’t the only things being flung at Flora-Bama. Music fans’ bras dangle from ceiling washing lines above the main stage. Stick a few dollar bills through an alligator’s mouth (thankfully not a live one) to tip the artists. Expect a shout-out, and take on the mantle of initiating the next line dance.
17401 Perdido Key Dr, Pensacola, FL 32507; florabama.com
Spot Dolphins during a Boat Trip to Shell Island
Shell Island is an unspoiled slice of sheer paradise, spanning a seven-mile stretch of conservation land off the mainland. It’s only accessible by boat, so take a cruise around the white sands to observe it. Feel free to lie back, relax and blast some tunes with a drink in hand, but turn down the volume as you approach the island – you won’t want to scare the wildlife. If you’re lucky, you’ll spot dolphins en route. If not, it’s still a worthy trip. Anchor in shallow emerald waters and luxuriate in a gentle swim over to shore, where you’ll spot sand dollars, ghost crabs, pelicans, and very few humans.
3605 Navy Blvd, Panama City Beach, FL 32408; cruisintikis.com/panama-city
Explore Downtown Pensacola
Pensacola’s downtown shines as a hub of culinary highlights and interesting culture. Grab a coffee from Maker’s Cafe, or sip a pint at Perfect Plain Brewery before wandering in and out of the boutiques on Palafox Street. Prefer a more natural landscape? Stroll to the newly developed Bruce Beach Park and spot storks and herons hiding in the reeds as you enjoy views of Pensacola Bay. Or, if history’s more your thing, visit sites on America’s First Settlement Trail and discover the city’s origins at the Pensacola Museum of History. The imperative stop, regardless of how you’re spending your time, is the neighbourhood of Belmont De Villiers. It’s a part of town featured on The Mississippi Blues Trail, with street art, and some of the best food on offer.
A boat jets through the emerald green waters and white sand of Panama City Beach in Florida, captured from above
Picnic on Pensacola Beach
Sunset at Pensacola Beach is quite the spectacle, so head down with a picnic and take in the glow against the horizon in real time. Deckchairs probably weren’t in your luggage allowance but luckily, The Pensacola Picnic Co. can organise the perfect set-up for you.
@pensacolapicnicco
Sandshaker
Once the sun goes down, the fun isn’t over. Head to the promenade for ‘Bands on the Beach’, a music series featuring rotating artists every Tuesday night from April through to October. Get your groove on, but be prepared to be outshone by real cowboy couples who have some serious moves in their boots.
A crowd gathers for the ‘Bands on the Beach’ music series featuring rotating artists every Tuesday night from April to October
When you’re done, head across the car park to Sandshakers and taste one of the region’s most famous cocktails, ‘The Bushwhacker’. Slushie. Creamy. Rum-based. A sort of adolescent holiday spin-off to the espresso martini. They’re perilously drinkable. You’ll need them for the Dutch courage later on – everyone here seemingly has vocals like Elvis Presley, even when attempting their faux-Mancunian rendition of ‘Champagne Supernova’. If all that doesn’t have you warbling in joyful southern drawl before the night is up, then I’ll eat my bandana.
731 Pensacola Beach Blvd, Fl 32561; sandshaker.com
Where to Eat & Drink
Five Sisters Blues Cafe
Located by the Pensacola Marker on the Mississippi Blues Trail, Five Sisters Blues Cafe is central to the celebration of African American culture, music, and the Black-owned businesses that shaped the city’s history – and a meal here does that legacy full justice. It hits all the high notes, and will have you wishing it were your local down the road at home. Taste fried green tomatoes with a decadent ranch sauce, southern-fried chicken, or one of their generously portioned salads. If you do opt for greens but don’t fancy missing out on that signature southern coating, the Bloody Mary is perfectly spiced and comes adorned with sharp pickled okra and a potent chicken wing garnish – a drink that moonlights convincingly as a meal in itself. Five Sisters Blues Cafe is so good, you’ll be left scatting in satisfaction.
421 W Belmont Street., FL 32501; fivesistersbluescafe.com
Two children snorkel in the gin-clear waters by Panama City beach in the Florida Panhandle
The Wharf Fish & Oyster Co.
The Wharf Fish & Oyster Co
If you’re a seafood lover, then a stop here should be added to your programme. This waterfront Gulf-to-table restaurant serves craft cocktails and specialises in oysters – both raw and cooked. Opt for Orleans-style: baked with Creole sauce and parmesan, or keep things pure and simple – knocking them back raw with chimichurri. Raw ahi tuna and jalapeños decorate nacho platters as pretty as the crown jewels. They slip down almost as fast as the restaurant’s spicy pineapple margaritas.
400 Quietwater Beach Road, Suite 13 Pensacola Beach, FL 32561; thewharffishco.com
Thomas’ Donuts
Is it a trip to the States without a doughnut stop? Thomas’ specialist roadside joint has been running since 1971 and offers three large windows full of flavour. Try the classic maple topped with crunchy bacon, or something more of the moment like a Dubai chocolate-inspired ring. If you’re looking to go all-in on Floridian flavours, there’s a key lime-filled version. It’s well worth the sugar high (and subsequent crash). Can’t decide? They offer a box of six for sharing.
19208 Front Beach Road, Panama City Beach, Florida 32413; thomasdonutandsnackshop.com
Schooners
A signature cocktail at Schooners served at sunset – a bar on Panama City Beach which guarantees a good time, and perhaps a sore head
Ever wondered what spring break feels like? At Schooners, they’ve bottled it, and they’re serving it year-round. Backwards-hat wearers keep one eye on sports screens, while teams in neon swimwear play volleyball between you and the ocean. The order here is a grouper basket and fries, complete with signature ‘hush puppies’ – globules of cornmeal batter thrown into the fryer, named for the belief that they can stop dogs from barking. Servers share funny Floridian anecdotes in the hope that the gossip lands them an extra tip. If it’s good enough, they’ll ring the huge bell in the middle of the bar. Ring in good memories (and maybe some hazy ones) before the night is up. ♦
5121 Gulf Drive, Panama City Beach, FL 32408; schooners.com
