When Anna del Conte talks about risotto milanese, it’s in no uncertain terms, referring to it as both "this favourite dish of mine" and "one of the pillars of Milanese cooking".
"Like all over-popular dishes, risotto alla milanese (known in its native city as risotto giallo, or yellow risotto) has been the subject of endless variations," she says. "This is my recipe, which has been in use in my family for generations, or at least for as long as my father (who would now be 113) could remember. He insisted that risotto giallo was made like this.
"If you can, use carnaroli rice. Otherwise use a good quality arborio. The better the rice, the longer it takes to cook. In Italy we cook carnaroli for 18 minutes from the time that you begin to add the stock. Arborio will take 1 or 2 minutes less."