Lebanese cuisine is among the oldest in the world, its roots tracing back to Phoenician traders who carried olive oil, wine and bread across the Mediterranean. In the intervening years, Ottoman and French empires and Arab traders have each left their own mark on the table, incorporating spices and techniques. But today, it also remains an intensely personal food culture, deeply embedded in daily family life.
Recipes belong to households, passed down through families, and many of their best are rarely shared outside the home. As Jad Youssef, owner of Reigate restaurant Lebnani, says: “Life in Beirut was complicated, but even in the shadow of war, something stronger always pulled us together: family and food. Despite falling bombs and regular power cuts, the question in our home every morning remained the same: ‘What shall we eat today?’”
Born in Beirut during the civil war, Youssef learned to cook from his mother, Khadija, with the daily ritual of family meals offering respite from the surrounding conflict. After opening Yalla Yalla in London in 2009, he moved to Surrey to open Lebnani in 2020. His new cookbook, also titled Lebnani, features over 80 recipes alongside personal stories and photographs from a country that expresses its spirit, tradition and resilience through its cooking, delving into the context and history of many of Lebanon’s most famous dishes.