There are a few times in the year when wine is needed more than at Christmas. A good glass of bubbly can get the festive spirit flowing. A robust chardonnay will make even the most difficult of great uncles tolerable. And a big, bolshy red will provide the perfect partner to the inevitable end-of-evening tiff. Never mind pairing your wines with the food – here at foodism, we pair ours to the mood.
The other useful purpose of wine? Gifting. What do you buy the person who has absolutely everything? How about the friend who hates thoughtless tat or the family member who insists physical gifts are overrated? That answer on most occasions – assuming they drink alcohol – is wine. And good wine at that.
White
Terras Gauda Rias Baixas 2023
A bottle of Terras Gauda
This is an inviting, vibrant white wine hailing from the notable Baixas region that speaks to Galicia’s coastal charm. Blending albariño, loureiro, and caiño blanco grapes, expect a nose of ripe peach, subtle citrus and delicate white flowers, followed by a palate that balances refreshing acidity with a subtle richness. Rounded out by a touch of salinity – a wink to the Atlantic’s influence – it’s the ideal companion to seafood, so keep this bottle stowed away for balmy al fresco evenings to come.
£20.73; decantalo.co.uk
Trossen Schieferblume 2022
A bottle of Trossen Schieferblume
Schieferblume translates to slate flower, a nod to the grey and blue slate soils of the Trossen’s vineyards and the wine that blooms thereafter. It’s made by Rita and Rudolf Trossen, who have been practising biodynamically on their estate in Germany since 1987 and making natural wines since 2010. It’s an arresting, pure expression of the slate-rich Mosel terroir with aromas of green apple, wild herbs and honey that leads to a palate that’s both taut and layered with an underscoring lick of salinity – like a tongue to the rim of a margarita. It’s perfectly coupled with stinky cheese, so roll out the wheels of Christmas stilton with great enthusiasm.
£33; newcomerwines.com
Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2019
Bottle of the Art Series Chardonnay
Krystian Krzewinski
Easily one of the most exciting wine regions in Australia right now, Margaret River is responsible for some of the country’s best bottles and producers – and perhaps one of the most coveted is the Leeuwin Estate Art Series chardonnay – although here at foodism we may be a little biased, as our deputy editor’s sister worked on this vintage. A near-perfect expression of the varietal, with hints of stone fruit and citrus but a full, rich body and a savoury note that makes it the perfect partner to food – particularly oilier fish and big flavours – this Aussie drop is in its prime drinking era. Crack it open at the start of Christmas dinner and raise a toast to a land down under.
£78.50; bbr.com
The Hermit Ram Salty White
Bottle of The Hermit Ram Salty White
Selfridges
While most might associate New Zealand sauvignon blancs with the grassy, grapefruit-forward, slightly pissy and abundantly-made wines that made their way out of the country en masse in the mid-2000s, The Hermit Ram, an exciting producer in the Canterbury region, is making a 100% sauvignon blanc that is truly mind-bending. Fittingly named Salty White, this wine has a striking salinity running through it, bringing a new layer of both texture and flavour to an often limpid grape. Unique and extremely well-matched to many different types of food, this is one of those rare wines that is completely surprising and entirely delicious.
£25.99; selfridges.com
Fizz
Hambledon Première Cuvée Rosé
A bottle of Hambledon Rosé
Milly Fletcher
Five years of ageing on lees takes this rosé blend to another level. At its entry point, it’s an extremely quaffable sparkling, but this première edition ramps up the flavour. Expect summer raspberry on the nose with a hint of blackberry and spice, while the palate brings an almost miso-adjacent savoury note with an assertive minerality and a balancing acidity. Just as delicious around the table as it is an aperitif, this bottle is a testament to the growing power of British winemaking.
Ferrari Trento Perlé
A bottle of Ferrari Trento Perlé
While Italian sparkling wine may be synonymous with prosecco – and, as Christy Spring points out elsewhere in this issue, the growing region of Franciacorta – there is another producer putting an alternative style on the map when it comes to méthode champenoise. Ferrari Trento, founded in 1902, catapulted into the global consciousness in 2021 when it was named the official toast of the F1 (and, no, curiously, the brand has no connection to the car company of the same name). Suddenly, Ferrari Trento became the hottest bottle in town, popped on Formula One podiums everywhere from Monza to Mexico. Get a sip of the fast lane with their premier blanc de blancs – Ferrari Trento Perlé – made from the winery’s best chardonnay grapes and aged on lees for a minimum of 54 months.
£43.50; noblegreenwines.co.uk
Champagne Lanson Blanc de Blancs NV
A bottle of Champagne Lanson Blanc de Blancs
When it’s cold outside, a wine drinker often requires the toastiness of an excellent chardonnay in their sparkles, and this is exactly what’s on the menu with Champagne Lanson’s Blanc de Blancs NV. Created by Hervé Dantan, chef de cave of Champagne Lanson, when he arrived at the house in 2013, it’s a masterclass in the synergy of freshness and finesse that a blanc de blancs can deliver. This could very well be the bottle to pop first on Christmas day.
£62; tesco.com
Champagne Fleury, Fleur de l’Europe, Brut Nature
A bottle of Champagne Fleury
A truly innovative producer, Champagne Fleury is a family-run business that has been making champagne in the Côte des Bars since 1895. Widely considered to be one of the original ‘grower champagne’ houses, the family were also the first to plant grafted pinot noir in the region after the decimation of the vines by phylloxera, and, in 1992, became entirely biodynamic – a revelation at the time. The wines reflect this ingenuity – and, now being made by grapes grown on vines that have almost entirely matured without chemicals, possess a genuine depth of flavour and texture that can be missing in other, more chemically-treated wines. Nuanced and pure with a generous palate that opens up in the mouth, this is a true treat of a champagne for Christmas – crack it open early in the day to truly enjoy it.
£47; bbr.com
Ca’del Bosco Franciacorta Cuvée Prestige
A bottle of Ca’del Bosco
Franciacorta, a sparkling Italian wine made using méthod champenoise, goes down as Italy’s answer to champagne. And, considering that only 11% of bottles are exported out of the boot-shaped nation every year, it’s clear that the winemakers in this hilly patch of Lombardy are doing something right. Ca’Del Bosco is one of the largest (and arguably one of the best) producers in the region, known for making organic Franciacorta with low residual sugar. The Cuvée Prestige, made by blending chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot blanc grapes from 134 vineyards, captures Ca’del Bosco’s style in its famous transparent bottle. It’s a classic, well-balanced Franciacorta that’s radiant and refreshing, pouring a brilliant straw-coloured gold that matches the star on the top of your tree.
£42; hedonism.co.uk
Champagne Telmont Réserve de la Terre
A bottle of Telmont
Something of a revolutionary producer in Reims, Champagne Telmont is leading the way when it comes to organic champagne production. The historic house has eco-warrior Leonardo Di Caprio as an investor, a strong endorsement of its efforts to combat the environmental impacts of winemaking and pioneer a move towards pesticide-free farming. The house is taking that ethos up a notch with the launch of the Réserve de la Terre, which is made from the best of the vineyard’s organically grown grapes. Vibrant, with notes of green apple and a hint of spice, this bottle celebrates the future of champagne making.
Gusbourne Blanc de Blancs 2019
A bottle of Gusbourne
There were whispers about a decade ago where people started suggesting that the UK might turn into a wine-producing nation. Many maligned the talk, scoffing at the idea that Ol’ Blighty could ever stand up to the greats of the old-world wine industry. And yet, fast-forward to 2024 and here we are with Gusbourne, widely recognised as one of the country’s best producers, and their 2019 blanc de blancs, an award-scooping sparkling wine that has been named an industry leader. Elegant and sprightly with a mineral underpinning, sip on some of Britain’s best this Christmas.
£65; gusbourne.com
Caillez Lemaire Cuvée Jadis 2011
A bottle of Caillez Lemaire Cuvée Jadis
This champagne hails from a small, family-owned house in Damery with vineyards located in some of Champagne’s most prestigious terroirs. Richly expressive on the nose, this deep gold-coloured champagne offers aromas of white flowers, citrus fruits and brioche. The palate is full-bodied and well-balanced with notes of apple, pear and a whisper of honey. Sip next to a crackling hearth, with a side helping of Gavin and Stacey, should you please.
£70; hedonism.co.uk
Orange
Renner & Sistas Gewurz 2021
A bottle of Renner & Sistas Gewurz
Looking for a gateway orange that isn’t going to scare off the in-laws? Made from gewürztraminer and pinot gris, this skin contact number is floral, ripe, and slightly spicy, with notes of rose and lychee reminiscent of a Turkish delight. Not as heavy-handed as some gewürztraminers, it’s an ideal match for aromatic dishes or soft cheeses. It’s a skin-contact wine that will both solidify your love for the stuff and convert granny to the orange side.
£36; newcomerwines.com
Radikon Venezia Giulia Slatnik
A bottle of Radikon Venezia Giulia Slatnik
Sasa Radikon is seen as one of the leaders of the orange wine industry. His vineyard, Radikon, sits close to the Italian/Slovenian border and made natural-style wines for decades, until the Italian affinity for clean, crisp white wines swept through the region and homogenised winemaking. But a switch back to natural, biodynamic winemaking has put Radikon front and centre in the conversation around new wine styles, and with good reason, too. While undeniably full of the richness and complexity that comes with a skin contact wine, the Slatnik is something of an entry-level bottle to Radikon’s style, seeing just eight days on skins compared to the multiple months some of the other drops see, making it the perfect bottle to bring to Christmas dinner to convince your orange-sceptic family members that this may just be the wine of the future.
£48; amathusdrinks.com
Domaine Lafage Taronja de Gris
A bottle of Domaine Lafage Taronja de Gris
You might think that the candy-coloured, tie-dyed label on the Domaine Lafage Taronja de Gris gives hippy vibes, and you’d probably be correct, but far from being the go-to for the great unwashed, the wine comes from a Roussillon producer with a proud Catalan lineage and delves deep into heritage and technique. Made in tandem with British winemaker and Master of Wine Justin Howard-Sneyd, the Taronja – which derives its name from the Catalan word for orange – is a gallant, bold blend of old-vine grenache gris, grenache blanc and a good smattering of muscat and viognier. Right on, man.
Renegade ‘Janet’ 2022 Skin Contact Malvasia
A bottle of Renegade ‘Janet’
This wine may be made in London – just around the corner from Blackhorse Road Station, in fact – but the grapes themselves aren’t grown in our tepid soil and pollution-rich air, don’t you worry. Made from malvasia grapes grown in the sun-licked, salt-kissed region of Puglia (also known as the heel of Italy’s boot), Janet is then aged and bottled in London by Renegade, where it sees a couple of weeks on skin before being transferred to oak barrels for seven months where malolactic fermentation brings a dose of creamy texture. Light filtration before bottling keeps things elegant and balanced. Expect nutty notes, a medium body and extreme bragging rights when you tell your friends this drop is, in fact, made just down the road.
Rosé
Chateau La Coste Provence Rosé 2023
A bottle of Chateau La Coste Provence Rosé
Every now and again, a region transcends location and becomes almost intimately synonymous with a particular style of wine – Provence, and its light pink, easy drinking rosés, has very much done that. To drink a Provence rosé is to be sitting in the summer sun, enjoying a long lunch as the mercury rises. This Chateau La Coste rosé is perfectly emblematic of the area’s iconic style. A blend of cabernet sauvignon, cinsault, grenache, and syrah, it is zippy, bright and elegant, and the perfect accompaniment to a festive salmon dish – or simply to save for the warmer summer months.
£24.95; fdsm.co/amps
Piscine Olympique 2023
A bottle of Piscine Olympique
In this bottle from Beaujolais, youthful gamay, souvignier gris and aromatic muscaris grapes are co-macerated for ten days as they braid together into a plait of deliciousness. Fermentation is spontaneous and wild … a little like your work Christmas party and produces an unfined and unfiltered tipple … a little like your work Christmas party chat. It’s a winter-ready rosé that is hearty enough to stand up to a cosy meal. Packed with notes of cherry, sour orange and grapefruit juice with a herbal finish, this rosé breaks away from the norm.
£31; newcomerwines.com
Domaine Ott Clos Mireille Rosé
A bottle of Domaine Ott Rosé
While technically falling under the one brand, Domaine Ott actually operates three estates: Château de Selle, Château Romassan and Clos Mireille. This rosé, from the latter, is a grenache-heavy blend that makes for delightful drinking that, at first glance, may seem deceptively simple. Grown near the ocean, the wine contains a unique salinity that offers added depth and vigour.
£35.20; amathusdrinks.com
Château d’Esclans Garrus
A bottle of Château d’Esclans Garrus
There’s no rosé more elevated than Château d’Esclans Garrus, which is widely regarded as one of the finest examples of the wine. Made from grapes meticulously selected from a single vineyard of nearly 100-year-old grenache vines, Garrus is entirely fermented and aged in French oak, for a powerful, concentrated sip that recalls vintage champagne without the bubbles. As the frontrunner of the Whispering Angel portfolio, it does a fabulous job of showing just how delicious a rosé can be.
£125; hedonism.co.uk
Porte Noire Collection Rosé
A bottle of Porte Noire Rosé
Swapping solving crimes for grape vines, Idris Elba joined forces with wine expert David Farber over their shared passion for wine to start Porte Noire. This Porte Noire Collection rosé from Provence pours a pale sunset pink and is a natural all-rounder, being as comfortable hanging out with ruffles of fatty charcuterie as it is getting cosy with a platter of oysters. Made from a combination of grenache, cinsault and rolle, expect a dry and refreshing palate with a crisp acidity that balances soft, juicy fruit – making it an effortlessly drinkable rosé for any occasion.
£28.80; portenoire.co.uk
Red
Alpha Estate Xinomavro Reserve Old Vines Single Block ‘Barba Yannis’ 2020
A bottle of Alpha Estate Xinomavro Reserve
Xinomavro, an exceptional but largely undervalued Greek grape, was thrust into the spotlight for two reasons this year. Firstly, Alice Lascelles (who you can find elsewhere in this issue ruminating on the minutiae of martini olives) penned an exceptional piece highlighting the varietal’s many delicious qualities in the FT. Secondly, David Carter opened Oma restaurant in Borough Market with a robust Greek wine list that features a fair few xinomavros and, suddenly, this grape was London’s favourite new drop. This reserve xinomavro from Alpha Estate is one for lovers of big, bold, oak-forward reds, with a bright acidity to keep things balanced. Yamas!
£33.50; maltbyandgreek.com
Catena Zapata, Angelica Zapata Malbec 2020
A bottle of Zapata Malbec
Ready to roll into the winter months with a wine that shouts Santa? Nothing is quite as adept at big-bodied December drinking than a finessed Mendoza malbec, and some would argue that Catena Zapata is king of the hill in that department. Reflecting the Catena family’s skilful winemaking heritage, this baby packs in dark fruit, floral notes and a hint of spice. In Argentina, it’s the ultimate gifting wine. Why should it be any different here?
£29; tesco.com
Quinta da Pedra Alta Rio Tinto 2018
A bottle of Quinta da Pedra Alta Rio Tinto
The Electric Eye Photography
When it comes to steak wines, Portugal is often overlooked. Don’t make that mistake. Pursue bovine bliss with the Quinta da Pedra Alta ‘Rio’ Tinto – an intense, savoury red from the Douro Valley, sourced from the estate’s lower elevation parcels, positioned next to the river. Get ready for deliriously deep notes of blue and black fruits with a hint of spice, smoke, and oak.
£46.95; cellardoorwines.co.uk
Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz 2022
A bottle of Penfolds Cabernet Shiraz 2022
Long seen as the jewel in the Penfolds crown, the vineyard’s Grange release is considered to be one of the best red wines on the market – and particularly from the new world. Fancy getting a feel for the storied wine for a fraction of the price? Nab a bottle of Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz – often nicknamed ‘Baby Grange’, not least because it sees age in oak barrels used on the previous year’s Grange vintage. The rich, full-bodied elements of cabernet are well-balanced by the peppery, red fruit-heavy shiraz to create a wine that is medium-bodied but far from run of the mill. This is the perfect gift for the wine lover in your life – encourage them to leave it in the cellar for a few years for it to reach its best.
£64.99; waitrosecellar.com
Lympstone Estate Triassic Pinot Noir
A collection of Lympstone Estate wines
People’s eyes don’t always jump out of their heads when they hear the words ‘English pinot noir’ but that’s likely because they haven’t sampled this beauty from Lympstone Manor Estate in Devon. Produced from 100% pinot noir and aged for 18 months in a mixture of new and second- and third-year French oak barriques, this crafty little number has turned heads and won accolades, including Best English Red Wine at the International Wine Challenge. There are only a few bottles of this award-winning wine available for retail sale, so it’s perfect for the collector in your life who appreciates the rare and local.
£65; lympstonemanorestate.co.uk
The Prisoner Red Blend
A bottle of The Prisoner Red Blend
Big, bolshy and berry-forward, this exceptional red wine is everything you want from a Californian red – with a side of social good, too. Named after an artwork by the 19th-century Spanish artist and social activist Francisco de Goya, The Prisoner work closely with charities that support individuals navigating the prison system in the US, in line with the painting’s intention for visually protesting the cruel incarceration that took place during the Spanish War of Independence in 1808. Wine that does good – we’ll drink to that.
£60; hedonism.co.uk
