Pop-up; restaurant; more restaurants; empire – it's becoming a tried-and-tested formula for talented young chefs, and Scott Hallsworth, who's just opened Kurobuta's second location in Marble Arch, has the first three steps down to a tee. Armed with a formidable lineup of cocktails, sake and sharing plates and a buzzy, hip atmosphere, Kurobuta may well be the best Japanese in London. We tried far too much to list, but particular highlights were the tuna sashimi pizza, drenched in sweet truffle ponzu(£9.50), unctuous tea-smoked lamb (£15.50), and the restaurant's signature miso grilled aubergine (£8) – one of the finest vegetarian dishes we've ever tried. The empire surely awaits...

Mike Gibson

17 Kendal Street, W2 2AW; kurobuta-london.com