Did you know that China holds the world record for the oldest wine? A 9,000-year-old fermented beverage made from rice, honey and wild grapes was discovered in present-day Henan province. How about that European wine grapes were introduced to China via the Silk Road over 2,000 years ago? The first officially recorded (grape) winemaker of China was the Emperor himself: Wudi of the Han dynasty.
Perhaps you haven’t heard that the first industrialised winery in China was founded in 1892, and is still the largest wine company existing in China today? Its flagship red Changyu Noble Dragon has sold over 680 million bottles.
And if this has all come as a surprise, you’ll be truly shocked to find that a Chinese wine named ‘Jiabeilan’ won the top trophy of a leading international wine competition – the Decanter World Wine Awards – in 2011? Since then, Chinese wines have won numerous international accolades at the highest level.
And yet, even in a diverse and open-minded market such as Britain, very few people have heard of, let alone tried, Chinese wines. Worse, many people have a preconceived notion that Chinese wines can’t be any good. This is unfair, as many a master of wine would attest that Chinese wines have humbled, surprised and delighted them in blind tastings.
For me, a Chinese-born and British-bred wine writer, I felt compelled to write my book The Chinese Wine Renaissance, which discusses all of the above ‘fun facts’ and much more besides, about the historical and cultural contexts for the rise of the Chinese wine industry.
Janet Z. Wang, author of The Chinese Wine Renaissance
The Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards mark a change in perception of Chinese Wines
Despite the evocative and unique terroirs that China encompasses, and the wonderful quality, varieties and styles on offer, Chinese wines have yet to make a significant impact internationally. For me, it is down to one overwhelming factor – the absence of Chinese wines in Chinese restaurants. This is the single biggest void for Chinese wines to fill, and increasingly, it is a missed opportunity for the restaurants too, as more Chinese restaurants look to ‘upscale’, differentiate, and diversify into more refined or regional cuisines.
Historically, overseas Chinese restaurants catered for ‘cheap eats’ and relied on fast turnaround. Selling wine at a much higher margin than food is an unfamiliar concept, and the prospect of lingering customers over a bottle of wine and deep conversation appals Chinese proprietors. On top of which, a lack of staff training in wine service and recommendations has led to the wine list being an afterthought. But modern diners expect more from restaurants – tasteful decor, friendly service and inspiring wine lists are as important as the food.
Did you know that China holds the world record for the oldest wine?
However, I feel a tidal change is on the horizon. A key turning point for me is the launch of the Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards – a wine competition conceived by winemaker Eddie McDougall and hosted by Wynn Palace Macau. It is free to enter for all Chinese wineries, and the judges are high-profile international wine experts who bring with them wide-ranging and different international experiences and perspectives. The results are Chinese wines being judged among peers but against international standards, and showcased on a world stage. This offers valuable insights and bi-directional learning for producers and judges. The judges also become effective global advocates for Chinese wines.
In 2025, the second year of the competition, a new category of ‘Wynn Sommelier’s Choice’ Awards were added, where each of the fine dining restaurants at Wynn Resorts chooses a top wine from a particular category to pair with a signature dish. The active participation of these top restaurants in Asia to showcase impeccable food and Chinese wine pairing is spearheading a movement of introducing Chinese wines to the finest dining tables.
I am confident that more restaurants from around the world will see this as a vote of confidence for listing Chinese wines. After all, if a Chinese wine is good enough for the two-Michelin-starred Chef Tam’s Seasons, it is good enough for anyone. It may be a trickle-down effect at first, but there will come a tipping point, when one day in the not-too-distant future, it will only be natural to go to a Chinese restaurant and expect an enjoyable glass of Chinese wine with your food – be it xiao long bao or peking duck.
