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Flavour of the Week: Dim sum at Hutong

When it comes to being lazy, you have to pick your moments. Sleeping at work, for example, isn't ideal. But tiny parcels of food that you barely have to chew, l

When it comes to being lazy, you have to pick your moments. Sleeping at work, for example, isn't ideal. But tiny parcels of food that you barely have to chew, let alone cut – now that I can get on board with, and the lunchtime-only dim sum menu at Hutong makes an art form of the lazy lunch. Each dish is a finely judged balance of flavour and texture – the crystal crab dumplings (£6.80) are sweet, intense translucent blobs, while the vegetable and bamboo pith dumplings (£6.50) are more delicate than the name suggests. The Wagyu beef puffs' (£8) buttery outer gives way to a sweet, unctuous filling – so good that I'd happily have it made into a full-sized pie. Then again, that would require complex coordination of cutlery, food and mouth. And that's a bit too much like hard work.

Hutong, The Shard, SE1 9RY; hutong.co.uk

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