What's the draw

If you didn't already feel ashamed of your greasy, post-pub doner last week, this new restaurant in Carnaby Street's Kingly Court should do the trick. With rare-breed meats and a seasonal menu brought to you by former Le Gavroche chefs, the team behind the venture are seriously passionate about redefining the kebab. Want to know more? Read our interview with co-founder Stephen Tozer.

What to drink

Kebabs and... wine? Yep, Le Bab's lovingly curated list demonstrates its commitment to seeking out new and interesting varieties, and at reasonable prices, too. The 2010 Meerlust Rubicon from Stellenbosch (a bordeaux blend) is the obvious choice if you go for the deer adana, but our interest was also piqued by the 2012 Searing grand cru riesling – and we didn't fail to notice a small note about off-menu "Czech imports". Elsewhere, there's three bottled beers from London Beer Factory, as well as a short-but-sweet cocktail list.

What to eat

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Whether you use cutlery or wrap 'em up and eat them in three (big) bites, these 'babs are things of delicate beauty. Smoky, tender roe deer adana was given a tart twist with cavolo nero kimchi; chicken shish became a textural delight with crisp, salty crackling and heritage carrot tops; pork shawarma was sadly sold out, and oh, how we wept. Even the bread had a gorgeous charcoal flavour. Don't forget the starters, either: meatlafel – a pulled lamb falafel-type ball of deliciousness – and lokma, a doughnut of spiced chicken liver parfait, were just right to whet the appetite. We've had word the menu's set to change soon – and we'll be hurrying back when it does.

Dinner and drinks for two: about £70. Top Floor, Kingly Court, Carnaby St, W1B 5PW; eatlebab.com

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