What's the draw
We would say that Kricket has come a long way since its humble beginnings, but that's not strictly true – at least, not geographically. Pop Brixton – the shipping-container-based food market and community hub where Kricket all began – is just a two minute walk away from its latest outpost on Atlantic Road. The first bricks-and-mortar location received critical acclaim on opening for its expert blending of authentic Indian influences with British ingredients, so a second site smack-bang in the middle of Brixton (Soho precedes it and White City came next) was only natural. Dinner's served directly under the railway arches, meaning your meal comes with a side of train rumblings as well as bhel puri. It'll also serve as a test kitchen for more eclectic modern Indian creations from chef Will Bowlby.
What to drink
Indian flavours don't stop with your small plates, here: curry leaves and spices also make it into the drinks, like the Lucky Neem – which shakes up Indian-spiced gin with cucumber and lime for a refreshing, colonial-inspired tipple. There's a small selection of wine by the glass or bottle, but as far removed as this is from a classic curry joint, it still seems sacrilege not to eschew the list in favour of an accompanying beer. Appropriately, options largely hail from the UK (Partisan and nearby Brixton Brewery) and India (White Rhino Brewing Co.).
What to eat
Plenty of the classics you might have sampled at other Kricket locations (or attempted at home courtesy of its excellent cookbook) are still here: the deliciously tender Keralan fried chicken with curry leaf mayo for dipping, decorated with discs of daikon, is always a good idea; and the same goes for the bhel puri, a wicked blend of raw mangoes, coriander and chutney yoghurt, and crunchy Indian noodles, which has been on the menu since day one. But there are some new kids on the block, too: the pig head vindaloo (a much less scary proposition than it sounds) is a slow-cooked masterpiece, served with artichoke tarka – an Indian cooking method that involves seasoning spices in ghee to mouthwatering effect. And, while steak tartare might not be a dish that screams India, the raw bavette was one curveball we were happy to indulge in. While we didn't get a chance to try it ourselves, the Brixton restaurant will be serving a Mumbai take on the classic Sunday roast by the time you read this. Just don't get too attached to anything – with a menu that is constantly evolving, there's a chance your favourites may have disappeared by your next visit.
Small plates from £5; wine from £5 by the glass. 41-43 Atlantic Rd, Brixton, SW9 8JL; kricket.co.uk
