Wun’s Tearoom, Soho: restaurant review

Head to Greek Street for Cantonese spirits, spicy, peanut-topped bar snacks and decadent soy-infused rice dishes.

What’s the draw

As you sink into the plush velvet armchairs, bask in the warm, inviting glow of Wun's wall-to-ceiling neon lights and sink a few Baijiu-based cocktails, we'd forgive you for thinking you'd done a Marty McFly and travelled back in time. It's 1962, you're in an underground bar in bustling Hong Kong and browsing a short-but-sweet menu - or, should we say, newspaper, as that's what the creatively laid out selection of Cantonese small plates infront of you mimics.

Sorry to break it to you, but you're still in Soho and yep, it's probably still raining. Nonetheless, the new venture from the team behind Bun House is sultry, sophisticated and a little sexy - quite the opposite of Bun House's bright, light, bustling, grab-and-go atmosphere.

What to drink

Whether you steer more towards a spirits-based cocktail or an ice cold bottle of beer, one thing Wun's most certainly has in the bag? Its drinks. There are specialist Chinese offerings on the menu you'd be hard-pressed to find anywhere else in the City. Think Baijiu, a favourite spirit of Hong Kong akin to whiskey but made from grains, masterfully mixed into cocktails by Wun's bartenders, Cantonese craft beers and Chinese whiskeys galore. Opt for the salted lime and rice cocktail if you've got a sweet tooth and like experimenting with umami, or the popcorn shoot and salt peach for a biting, boozy delight.

What to eat

Or rather, what not to eat is the real question. Get snacking with the three threads peanut salad and Wun's favourite crispy tofu for starters, both more-ish, salty snacks ideal for accompanying your drinks. The rest of the newspaper - ahem, menu - is divided into three sections; founder Z's infamous clay pot rices, coal grill skewers and more general main courses. Chopsticks at the ready to tuck into sweet, sticky dumplings, woven together by crispy, crunchy batter, almost al dente brussel sprouts soaked with just the right amount of fuyu sauce and fresh chilli, and umami-rich braised aubergine and soy egg, served in a hot-from-the-oven clay pot atop crispy-round-the-edges sticky rice. Finish off your meal with an egg tart - if you can find the room - for a sticky, saccharine-sweet pastry not far off from the pastel de natas you find in Lisbon’s backstreet bakeries.

Mains from £9.80; cocktails from £13.50. 23-24 Greek St, W1D 4DZ;