What's the draw
Mark Jarvis's Anglo is possibly best described as fine-dining restaurant created for people who don't necessarily love the trappings of fine dining. Outside, a tiny, neon-lit sign guides you into a room that's tiny enough to rely on just a couple of waiting staff and a few chefs (who themselves get involved with serving dishes), the tables are bare, and the price of the tasting menu – the only option during the restaurant's dinner service – is far from eye-watering at £45 per head.
What to drink
If you're happy with a bottle, you're in good hands with the well-sourced wine list. We'd heartily recommend the drinks pairing (at £30), which starts with wine (an aromatic Austrian blaufränkisch blend, served chilled, and an old-vine garnacha from Aragon were standouts) before moving onto a few eyebrow-raising beer and cider pairings – the rich coffee notes of Siren Craft Brew's breakfast stout were a perfect foil for our rich dark chocolate dessert.
What to eat
You'll be presented with the day's menu on arrival, and note that it'll change pretty regularly according to seasons and availability of ingredients. We loved the umami-rich girolles and oak moss that was first up, as well as a delicious cod in dashi stock, served with celeriac and with a big hit of lavender. The 'main' was a knockout, too – red deer was served both pan-fried and as a smoked tartare, with fermented cabbage, juniper and an aubergine purée. Two thirds of the way in and you can try out one of Anglo's embryonic signature dishes, too: mature cheddar and caramelised onion slathered on malt loaf. Trust us – it works.
Tasting menu, £45; £75 with paired wines. 30 St Cross St, EC1N 8UH; anglorestaurant.com