What's the draw

If the expansive St Leonards is all light and stoney finishes, leafy plants and the colours of spring, then Orasay is its autumnal counterpart, with terracotta-cushioned benches, antique French oak and shady nooks lit by a shrine of flickering candles. And where St Leonards is roomy, Jackson Boxer and Andrew Clarke's third restaurant (following Brunswick House and St Leonards) is more on the cosy side, to put it lightly. With that in mind, get ready to breathe in – right in – if you nab a seat at one of the many couple's spots that stretch the length of this Notting Hill neighbourhood haunt: there's a strong chance you might take your neighbour's dinner to the floor next time you squeeze through to the loo.

What to drink

Ginger kefir proves to be a refreshing (and non-alcoholic) way to start our meal, its flavour resembling something more like an iced tea than the sour smack of most lactic ferments. Flip the menu over, though, and you'll find around 45 different wines. Most go by the bottle but a handful, of which are on tap, come by the glass or carafe. The young Mâcon from Burgundy producer Domaine Coteaux des Margots – a buttery and mellow chardonnay with a hint of minerality – from the house list will serve you well, but for something slightly more acidic, a glass of Les Quatre's 2017 viognier is your best bet.

What to eat

Inspiration for Orasay comes by way of the western isles of Scotland, so don't miss out on superlative seafood straight from the Hebrides or… er, Devon if, like us, you order the sweet and plump Teign River oysters with their bright pink splash of elderflower, shallot and champagne vinaigrette. Fried shrimp slathered in avocado, yuzu and coriander dip are prime snacking material, while the rich beef and tuna tartare with winter tomato and a slightly over-salted, house-made cracker will ease you into the main event: the Tamworth chop. Perfectly seasoned and served on the bone with a thick runner of seared fat, the chop rests on a bed of cheesy white butterbeans and spring greens. If Samin Nosrat comes back for a second season of Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat, then we'd pitch this as the main event. Take it down alongside the side-plate-sized comté and shallot tart with its caramelised pastry and transformative shavings of earthy Perigord truffle. And – if your wallet and waistband allows it – try and save room for dessert: the rhubarb and vanilla rice pudding delivers a heady hit of cardamom so strong (and delicious), it'll have you rolling out the curtained door onto Portobello Road in no time.

Mains from £21; wine from £5 by the glass. 31 Kensington Park Road, W11 2EU; orasay.london