The Holland
25 Earls Court Road
London
GB
W8 6EB
What’s the draw
This is not your average boozer. No – The Holland may present itself as a pub, but make no mistake, this is a serious dining establishment. The brainchild of chef Max de Nahlik –best known for his much-loved pop up Oxalis –The Holland is a heartier offering than its roaming predecessor, playing into the pub stereotype with a distinctly refined edge. This imagines itself in modern British food that has a vague francophilic approach and centres seasonal ingredients throughout. The space itself is bright and airy – a swift departure from your classic pub, and an immediate sign that this is not a destination for a forlorn pie and an overcooked steak. When it comes to the interiors, it's slightly Scandi in feel, with oodles of blonde wood and earthy tones.
What to drink
While there are some great beers on tap here, you’d be remiss to look past the lengthy and well-priced wine list. A glass of house white – a cracking Portuguese alvarinho – is priced at a criminally cheap £5, and many bottles sit under the £50 mark. On our visit during the frigid pre-Christmas cold snap, there was a steaming pot of mulled wine sitting on the bar that was impossible to look past and it was perfect: warming, spiced and delicately fruity. There is also a lengthy selection of cocktails, and a great and elegant choice of non-alcoholic drinks, too.
What to eat
The crab on toast is quickly becoming something of a classic dish here, and it’s easy to see why. Delicately spiced, unctuous brown crab is pile atop a crisp, buttery piece of toasted sourdough. It tastes intensely of the sea, and a squeeze of lemon juice elevates it all with a lip-puckering finish. A concise, ever-changing selection of mains features a meat, fish and vegetarian choice – on our visit, there was crispy-skinned sea bass with a rich shellfish bisque and roasted fennel, venison with roasted root vegetables and roasted celeriac. But for those visiting with carnivorous friends, it will be hard to look past the 1kg beef rib for two. It’s a gorgeous, perfectly-cooked slab of meat that epitomises The Holland’s approach to ingredient-led food cooked with skill.
