What's the draw
Magnus Reid has been a busy boy in the last few years, setting up CREAM and the Rooftop Café before settling at Hackney's Legs, which just won a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide 2017. The room is tiny, the menu is compact, the dishes are achingly simple, and the flavours are punchy and lively.
What to drink
The great thing about Legs is that it doesn't overextend itself. There's no bar set-up encroaching on the 20-or-so-covers space, which means you're in wine territory. There's a focus on small producers and organic wines – we sampled an Australian friulano from newer-than-new-school winemaker Quealy.
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What to eat
Reid is outspoken on his desire to make fuss-free dishes, and it shows in the menu. Bobby beans (that's green beans to you and me) are deep-fried in a light, tempura-style batter and served simply with ricotta and honey; confit duck is inventively paired with creamed corn; and melon on melon (cubed melon served with a melon granita, or flaked sorbet, and topped with just a touch of extra-virgin olive oil and flaked sea salt) is a lip-smacking, palate-cleansing, unconventional dessert treat.
Dishes from £4, wines from £23 by the bottle. 120-122 Morning Lane, E9 6LH; legsrestaurant.com.
