Flavour of the Week: Balls & Company

This week, the world went spherical at Soho's Balls & Company, a concept restaurant that's giving meatballs with sauce a trendy – and delicious – makeover

Balls & Company

What's the draw

This ballsy offering (geddit?) on Greek Street comes to us from Australian MasterChef finalist Bonny Porter, and is the latest to join Soho's ever-growing ranks of single-dish restaurants. The venue is intimate yet stylish, with the nice addition of an open kitchen at the back.

What to drink

We recommend whetting your whistle in the downstairs bar, where you can choose from a surprisingly solid cocktail list. We were tempted by Off Beets, a Nordic-style concoction of pear vodka, fresh beetroot and lingonberry syrup, but ended up going for a classic almond sour. Upstairs, there's a concise but excellent menu of wines, craft beers and ciders – we chose malbec to go with our food.

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What to eat

The idea is simple: you choose your balls and they arrive, hipster-style, in little copper pans with your sauce of choice artfully drizzled on top. We've never really been excited by meatballs, but these are undeniably special – the wagyu beef comes medium rare and went well with the recommended romesco sauce, but the pork offering, with ricotta, parmesan, pine nuts, basil and sage, and topped with tangy pesto, was the real showstopper. Elsewhere, the polenta chips were crisp and flavoursome, sprinkled with rosemary salt, while artichoke arancini from the specials menu were balls of melted, cheesy goodness. If you've got a sweet tooth, make sure you try the brownie (sadly not spherical), topped with 'fairy floss'.

Dinner and drinks for 2, around £60. 58 Greek Street, W1D 3DY; ballsandcompany.london.

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