Flavour of the Week: Paradise by way of Kensal Green

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What's the draw

Something of a mixed bag, Paradise's dining room has the trappings of a gastropub and bar, and the place turns into a pounding club after hours, but the fact that it's bagged former Petersham Nurseries head chef Cat Ashton means a jack of all trades this is most certainly is not.

What to drink

We started with the Negronis in Paris – a twist on the classic, made with Remy Martin VSOP and Cocchi Americano – before moving on to wine. We washed our starter down with a glass of Planeta Etna Bianco from Sicily, enjoyed a Skillogalee cab sauv with our ribeye, and were pleasantly surprised by a Tokaji Hungarian ice wine to finish.

What to eat

One of the kitchen's standout dishes, sesame-seared tuna tartare with tahini and avocado fattoush salad, more than lived up to expectations: delicate flavours and a range of bold textures that managed not to intrude on each other. Our charred ribeye, too, passed the test with flying colours – rich and almost gamey in flavour, with a buttery texture and just the right amount of crispy, salty, caramelised fat. We're getting hungry again just thinking about it.

Cocktails, three courses and wine for two: around £110. 19 Kilburn Lane, W10 4AE; theparadise.co.uk