What's the draw:
If you're thinking Allan Pickett doesn't sound French, you'd be right – he hails from Kent – but take look at his credentials and you'll see where his cuisineà la française stems from. He's racked up experience at several of Michel Roux Jr.'s establishments, as well as at Orrery, L'Escargot, Galvin Bistrot de Luxe and Plateau, so it makes sense that Piquet, his first solo venture, is similarly French-inspired.
What to drink:
Unlike many restaurants in this vein, the comprehensive wine list is, refreshingly, not dominated by the usual French names, with a wealth of both Old and New World wines to discover. We enjoyed a full-bodied, velvety 2012 South African bordeaux blend, La Jeunesse Délicate (French-inspired, natch), which paired well with both fishy and meaty mains.
View on Instagram
What to eat:
Pickett's French training is in evidence from the get go, the meal kicking off with puff pastry perfection in the form of a pithivier filled with madeira jus and snails from Littlebourne, Kent; and a delicate scallop carpaccio, garnished with tiny spheres of pickled apple. Up next was monkfish cassoulet, the flakey flesh of the fish a perfect counterpoint to the robust flavour of the beans, with added texture from a crispy squid topping, while our guest devoured a ribeye steak of Dedham Vale beef. We had our eye on the impressive cheese selection to finish, but gave in to the temptation of the vast pear and red wine tatin to share instead. It came, served with a flourish, on its own trolley – because what's traditional French cuisine without a little healthy pomp and circumstance?
Dinner and wine for two: around £90. 92 Newman St, W1T 3EZ; piquet-restaurant.co.uk.
