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Flavour of the Week: Sartoria

Savile Row institution Sartoria has gone and got itself a makeover, with a sharp new look and Francesco Mazzei heading up the kitchen, but the old-school Mayfair glamour and fun are very much still part of its fabric

Sartoria's dining room

What's the draw

After seven years in the kitchen at City stalwart L'Anima, Francesco Mazzei is chef-patron at last, at the revamped Sartoria in glamour land on Mayfair's Savile Row. Expect artful – but still rustic – plates inspired by classic southern Italian fare, a comprehensive Italian wine list, measured service and a room that's big and plush enough to sink into after the inevitable feast.

What to drink

In real terms, you're here for the wine, so the cocktail list is (advisably) kept short, sweet and classically Italian. We plumped for a negroni spagliato to start, and were well attended-to by the sommelier, an old boy who was evidently as much a part of the furniture as the luxurious seating – the Verdicchio di Matelica was particularly good with our fish.

What to eat

No sharing plates here: the only way to go is antipasti, primi, secondi and dessert (if you can manage it). We grazed on deliciously umami-laden Black Angus tartare with anchovy purée and a half-lobster salad, before moving onto morsels of tortellini stuffed with rich burrata and finishing on a salt-baked sea bream for two – served at the table with potatoes and greens, it was a perfect example of Mazzei's delicate, creative, but unfussy style.

Cocktails, dinner, wine and service for two: around £160. 20 Savile Row, W1S 3PR; sartoria-restaurant.co.uk.

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