Flavour of the Week: Shackfuyu

Sweet, sour, tangy and undeniably moreish: we find an irresistible mix of flavours at Bone Daddies' yoshoku restaurant

A table at Shackfuyu

What’s the draw

Feeling pretty good about its clasp on London’s burgeoning ramen scene, Bone Daddies has since turned its hand to more eclectic, modern Japanese fusion with Flesh + Buns and Shackfuyu. The latter is based around the yoshoku concept, where Western cuisine is reinterpreted into that of Japan.

What to drink

We started with a Smoke on the Water, a heady cocktail made with gin, vodka, vermouth and Japanese whisky (it works, we assure you) with burnt lemon. Sake-head? A carefully selected list, divided by serving temperature, will see you through, and a strong Japanese whisky menu will take care of you if you’re hanging on after mains.

What to eat

Be careful – you’re in grazing territory, and without due care and attention you’ll devour all the sweet, sour, tangy and endlessly moreish morsels put in front of you without thinking – although we managed to limit ourselves to just five or six. Standouts were the rabbit curry doughnut – deep-fried and served with a garnish, so good we were tempted to lick the bowl after (we didn’t) – tender lamb neck fillet with fiery red sauce to accompany it, and sukiyaki-style wagyu picanha, brought over on a sizzling skillet to cook as your leisure. Miso aubergine bordered on a dessert level of molasses-drenched sweetness if that’s your thing; if not, save room for the only finisher: French toast with tea-flavoured soft serve ice cream. It’s exactly as good as it sounds.

Cocktails and dinner for two: around £80. 14A Old Compton St, London W1D 4TJ; bonedaddies.com/shackfuyu

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