Flavour of the Week: Tozi, Victoria

Victoria is quietly turning itself into a genuine food destination, but Venetian bacaro Tozi was there before it was cool. We find antipasti and seafood aplenty

Sharing plates may be the 'in thing' in London at the moment, but in Venice they've always been so. Tozi, a recent opening in Victoria, is named for Venetian slang meaning a group of friends, and of all the bacari springing up in the capital, it may well be the best. The menu is full to bursting with authentic meat and seafood cicchetti, with a huge emphasis on good provenance and simplicity. The meat and cheese selection (£18.50) is a superb antipasto, but the seafood is its real strong suit – the tuna tartare (£7.75) is light and elegant, and the crab linguine (£28 for two to share) tastes fresh and fruity but with a deep, bisquey aftertaste. They might be meant for sharing, but chances are you'll wish you could keep them all to yourself.

8 Gillingham Street, SW1V 1HJ; tozirestaurant.co.uk

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